@import url('/fonts.css');
:root{--paper:#f6f5ef;--ink:#223f38;--muted:#6c766f;--line:#d8ddd3;--white:#fff;--accent:#b5724f;--serif:'DM Serif Display',Georgia,serif;--sans:'DM Sans',Arial,sans-serif;--gutter:clamp(24px,5vw,80px)}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:105px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.6;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}body:has(dialog[open]){overflow:hidden}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select,summary{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button{cursor:pointer}button:disabled{cursor:default}button:focus-visible,a:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--accent);outline-offset:5px}img{display:block;max-width:100%;height:auto}svg{width:21px;height:21px;flex-shrink:0;fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1.5;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}h1,h2,h3,p{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-weight:400}h1,h2,h3,.serif{font-family:var(--serif)}h1{font-size:clamp(45px,5.7vw,84px);line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:-.035em}h2{font-size:clamp(36px,4.1vw,58px);line-height:1.12;letter-spacing:-.025em}h3{font-size:28px;line-height:1.18;letter-spacing:-.015em}button{border:0;background:none;color:inherit}button[hidden],[hidden]{display:none!important}.skip{position:fixed;left:20px;top:-100px;z-index:50;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;padding:15px}.skip:focus{top:10px}.wrap{max-width:1440px;margin:auto;padding-left:var(--gutter);padding-right:var(--gutter)}.eyebrow{text-transform:uppercase;font-size:11px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.18em;line-height:1.5;display:block}.muted{color:var(--muted)}.arrow{transition:transform .2s}.text-link{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:17px;font-size:13px;font-weight:600;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid currentColor}.text-link:hover .arrow{transform:translateX(4px)}.pill{display:inline-flex;gap:28px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;padding:15px 24px;background:var(--ink);color:#fff;border-radius:99px;font-size:13px;font-weight:500;line-height:1.5;transition:background .2s,transform .2s}.pill:hover{background:#33584d;transform:translateY(-2px)}.pill.light{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}.pill.light:hover{background:#fff}.pill.outline{background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--ink)}
.site-header{position:sticky;top:0;height:88px;z-index:20;background:rgba(246,245,239,.96);border-bottom:1px solid rgba(34,63,56,.12);backdrop-filter:blur(14px)}.header-inner{height:100%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;flex-shrink:0}.brand-tail{white-space:nowrap}.brand svg{height:33px;width:33px;stroke-width:1.1}.wordmark{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:25px;letter-spacing:-.035em;line-height:1}.wordmark small{font-family:var(--sans);font-weight:500;display:block;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.23em;text-transform:uppercase;line-height:1.4;margin-top:8px}.desktop-nav{display:flex;gap:32px;font-size:12px;font-weight:500}.desktop-nav a{position:relative;padding:8px 0}.desktop-nav a:after{content:'';position:absolute;bottom:1px;left:0;right:0;height:1px;background:currentColor;transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:left;transition:transform .2s}.desktop-nav a:hover:after,.desktop-nav a[aria-current=page]:after{transform:scaleX(1)}.header-actions{flex-shrink:0;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:20px}.search-trigger{width:38px;height:38px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%}.search-trigger:hover{background:#e6e9df}.contact-link{font-size:12px;border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:25px}.menu-trigger{display:none;width:42px;height:42px;align-items:center;justify-content:center}.mobile-menu{position:fixed;inset:88px 0 auto;background:var(--paper);padding:20px var(--gutter) 30px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 20px 24px #1b352915;z-index:19}.mobile-menu a{font-size:22px;display:block;padding:13px 0;font-family:var(--serif)}
.home-hero{position:relative;margin:0 16px;min-height:600px;height:calc(90svh - 88px);max-height:780px;overflow:hidden;color:#fff}.hero-image{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 58%}.home-hero:after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(10,29,26,.62),rgba(10,29,26,.08) 75%),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(11,25,20,.52),transparent 45%)}.hero-content{position:relative;z-index:1;height:100%;min-height:600px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;padding-top:15px;padding-bottom:120px}.hero-content .eyebrow{color:#f0e9d9;margin-bottom:27px}.hero-content h1{font-size:clamp(66px,7.9vw,113px);line-height:.99;max-width:770px;letter-spacing:-.035em}.hero-content h1 em{font-weight:400}.hero-content>p{font-size:14px;color:#f0f0e8;max-width:300px;line-height:1.8;margin:25px 0 30px}.hero-content .pill{align-self:flex-start}.hero-bottom{position:absolute;bottom:32px;left:0;right:0;z-index:2;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:20px}.hero-signature{font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.02em}.hero-signature span{display:block;color:#e1e5df;margin-top:3px;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.1em}.hero-location{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;font-size:12px;text-align:right}.hero-location small{display:block;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.07em;color:#e5e8df}.hero-location svg{height:31px;width:31px;border:1px solid #ffffff70;border-radius:50%;padding:7px}.journal-intro{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:35px;padding-top:31px;padding-bottom:31px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.journal-intro .eyebrow{color:var(--ink);white-space:nowrap}.intro-rule{height:1px;width:50px;background:var(--line)}.journal-intro .last{margin-left:auto;display:flex;gap:8px;align-items:center}.journal-intro svg{width:15px;height:15px}.section{padding-top:90px;padding-bottom:90px}.section-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:30px;margin-bottom:39px}.section-top .eyebrow{margin-bottom:17px;color:var(--accent)}.section-top p{font-size:13px;max-width:290px;color:var(--muted)}.filters{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:0 0 32px}.filter{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:30px;font-size:12px;padding:9px 19px;transition:all .2s}.filter:hover{background:#e8ebdf}.filter[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);color:white;border-color:var(--ink)}.filter small{font-size:10px;opacity:.65;margin-left:6px}.trips-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:45px 28px}.trip-card{min-width:0}.trip-card .photo-link{display:block;overflow:hidden;position:relative;aspect-ratio:1.35;background:#d8dfd4}.trip-card img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .65s}.trip-card:hover img{transform:scale(1.035)}.photo-badge{position:absolute;bottom:14px;left:15px;border:1px solid #ffffff80;background:#f6f5efec;backdrop-filter:blur(6px);color:var(--ink);padding:4px 10px;border-radius:20px;font-size:10px}.trip-card .card-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;margin:18px 0 8px;font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.14em;color:var(--muted)}.trip-card h3{font-size:30px}.trip-card p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);margin-top:14px}.trip-card .text-link{margin-top:13px;font-size:12px}.trip-card .year{font-size:11px}.archive-title{padding-top:67px;padding-bottom:35px}.archive-title h1{max-width:850px}.archive-title .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px;color:var(--accent)}.archive-title p{max-width:530px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:25px}.archive-full{padding-top:35px}.archive-search{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:30px;margin-top:48px}.archive-search p{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
.ticino{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;min-height:550px;background:#e9ece2}.ticino-photo{position:relative;min-height:480px}.ticino-photo img{width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;object-fit:cover}.ticino-photo .caption{position:absolute;left:28px;bottom:24px;color:#fff;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.15em;text-shadow:0 1px 5px #000;text-transform:uppercase}.ticino-copy{padding:75px clamp(35px,6vw,90px);display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center;align-items:start}.ticino-copy .eyebrow{color:#6b7663;margin-bottom:23px}.ticino-copy h2{font-size:clamp(48px,5vw,72px);margin-bottom:26px}.ticino-copy p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.95;margin-bottom:28px;max-width:400px}.ticino-copy .text-link{font-size:12px}.about{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:100px;align-items:center}.about-photos{position:relative;padding:0 45px 45px 0}.about-photos img{aspect-ratio:1.35;object-fit:cover;width:100%}.about-caption{display:block;max-width:100%;line-height:1.35;position:absolute;right:0;bottom:0;background:var(--paper);padding:24px 26px;font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;font-size:22px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.about-copy .eyebrow{margin-bottom:20px;color:var(--accent)}.about-copy p{color:var(--muted);font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;margin:25px 0;max-width:440px}.signature{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;font-size:25px;letter-spacing:-.02em}.site-footer{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding-top:54px;padding-bottom:27px}.footer-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px;padding-bottom:44px;border-bottom:1px solid #ffffff29}.footer-top .wordmark{font-size:30px}.footer-top p{font-size:11px;color:#c3cec5;margin-top:18px;line-height:1.8}.footer-links{display:flex;gap:55px}.footer-links div{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;font-size:12px}.footer-links .eyebrow{font-size:9px;color:#b4c0b5;margin-bottom:5px}.footer-links a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.footer-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;padding-top:23px;font-size:10px;color:#c3cec5}.back-top{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center}.back-top svg{width:14px;height:14px}
.breadcrumbs{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:9px;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--muted);padding-top:25px;padding-bottom:25px}.breadcrumbs a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.trip-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.9fr 1.1fr;align-items:stretch;gap:65px;margin-bottom:65px}.trip-intro-copy{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:start;justify-content:center;padding:25px 0}.trip-intro .eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:25px}.trip-intro h1{font-size:clamp(54px,6vw,82px)}.trip-intro h1 span{display:block;font-style:italic;color:#748477}.trip-intro p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.95;margin:28px 0}.trip-intro .trip-photo{min-height:430px;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.trip-stats{display:flex;gap:22px;font-size:11px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:22px;margin-bottom:27px;width:100%}.trip-stats span{display:flex;gap:8px;align-items:center}.trip-stats svg{width:15px;height:15px}.journal-section{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:45px;padding-bottom:90px}.journal-section .section-top h2{font-size:40px}.sort-select{background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:25px;padding:10px 35px 10px 16px;color:var(--ink);font-size:12px;max-width:100%}.stories-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:45px 27px}.story{min-width:0}.story-image{aspect-ratio:1.55;overflow:hidden;display:block;background:#e0e5db;position:relative}.story-image img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .5s}.story:hover img{transform:scale(1.04)}.story-order{position:absolute;top:13px;left:13px;background:#f6f5efee;color:var(--ink);border-radius:50%;width:29px;height:29px;display:grid;place-items:center;font-size:10px}.story-date{color:var(--muted);font-size:10px;margin:18px 0 10px}.story h3{font-size:26px}.story p{color:var(--muted);font-size:12px;line-height:1.85;margin-top:13px;display:-webkit-box;-webkit-line-clamp:4;-webkit-box-orient:vertical;overflow:hidden}.story .text-link{font-size:11px;margin-top:12px}
.article-top{padding-top:30px;padding-bottom:45px;max-width:1020px;margin:auto;text-align:center}.article-top .eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:23px}.article-top h1{font-size:clamp(42px,5vw,70px);line-height:1.12}.article-meta{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:17px;flex-wrap:wrap;font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:25px}.article-meta span+span:before{content:'·';padding-right:17px}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr minmax(0,720px) 1fr;gap:45px;align-items:start;margin:0 auto 60px}.article-side{position:sticky;top:122px;padding-top:12px;font-size:11px;max-width:200px}.article-side .eyebrow{font-size:9px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:15px}.article-side strong{font-weight:500;font-size:13px;display:block;margin-bottom:18px}.article-side select{font-size:11px;width:100%;max-width:200px;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px 10px;border-radius:3px;background:transparent;color:var(--ink)}.article-side a{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin-top:22px}.article-side svg{width:15px;height:15px}.reading-content{font-size:17px;line-height:1.95;color:#34423a;overflow-wrap:break-word}.reading-content p{margin-bottom:22px;white-space:normal}.reading-content p:first-child{font-size:19px;line-height:1.85;color:var(--ink)}.reading-content p>br:last-child{display:none}.reading-content a{border-bottom:1px solid #9eafa0}.reading-side-note{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--muted);padding-top:16px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.reading-side-note .serif{font-size:21px;line-height:1.25;color:var(--ink);margin-bottom:15px}.article-gallery{padding:35px 0 70px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.gallery-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:15px;margin-bottom:28px}.gallery-heading h2{font-size:38px}.gallery-heading span{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.gallery-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:13px}.gallery-link{display:block;aspect-ratio:1.4;overflow:hidden;position:relative;background:#e3e7dd}.gallery-link img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .4s}.gallery-link:hover img{transform:scale(1.035)}.gallery-link:after{content:'↗';position:absolute;right:12px;bottom:12px;background:var(--paper);height:29px;width:29px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%;font-size:17px;opacity:0;transition:opacity .2s}.gallery-link:hover:after{opacity:1}.article-end{max-width:720px;margin:0 auto 60px}.original-comments{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:30px;margin-bottom:40px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.8}.original-comments h3{font-size:26px;margin-bottom:25px}.original-comments p>br:last-child{display:none}.comment-author{font-weight:600;margin-top:23px}.comment-text{color:#34423a;margin-top:4px}.comment-date{font-size:10px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}.related-links{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:19px 0;font-size:13px}.related-links summary{cursor:pointer}.related-links ul{columns:2;margin:20px 0 5px;padding-left:18px;font-size:12px}.related-links li{padding-bottom:10px;break-inside:avoid}.related-links a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.prev-next{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-bottom:75px}.prev-next a{padding:30px 30px 15px 0;display:block}.prev-next a+ a{border-left:1px solid var(--line);padding-left:35px;text-align:right}.prev-next span{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);display:block;margin-bottom:12px}.prev-next h3{font-size:28px}.prev-next a:hover h3{color:var(--accent)}.contact-page{max-width:850px;padding-top:90px;padding-bottom:110px}.contact-page .eyebrow{color:var(--accent);margin-bottom:22px}.contact-page h1{margin-bottom:25px}.contact-page>p{color:var(--muted);max-width:550px;margin:20px 0 30px}.contact-panel{background:#e9ece2;padding:30px;margin-top:40px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px}.contact-panel p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.9}.not-found{padding:90px var(--gutter);min-height:60vh;text-align:center}.not-found p{margin:25px 0}
.search-dialog{border:none;border-radius:8px;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);width:min(760px,calc(100% - 30px));padding:30px;max-height:85svh;box-shadow:0 25px 100px #0005}.search-dialog::backdrop,.lightbox::backdrop{background:#10231bcd;backdrop-filter:blur(6px)}.dialog-top{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:15px;margin-bottom:25px}.dialog-top h2{font-size:32px}.icon-button{width:38px;height:38px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%;background:#e8ebdf;flex-shrink:0}.search-field{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding-bottom:14px}.search-field input{border:0;background:transparent;outline:none;width:100%;color:var(--ink);font-size:18px;min-width:0}.search-status{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin:17px 0}.search-results{max-height:50svh;overflow:auto}.search-result{display:flex;gap:16px;padding:16px 3px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.search-result img{width:78px;height:66px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:2px;flex-shrink:0}.search-result small{font-size:9px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--muted)}.search-result h3{font-size:22px;margin-top:3px}.search-result:hover h3{color:var(--accent)}.lightbox{border:0;padding:0;width:100vw;height:100svh;max-width:none;max-height:none;background:#10231bf2;color:#fff;outline:0}.lightbox-content{height:100%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:65px 70px 75px}.lightbox-image{max-height:100%;max-width:100%;width:auto;height:auto;object-fit:contain}.lightbox .close-lightbox{position:absolute;right:22px;top:18px;background:#ffffff24}.lightbox-nav{position:absolute;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);background:#ffffff19;border:1px solid #ffffff29;width:42px;height:42px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%}.lightbox-prev{left:15px}.lightbox-next{right:15px}.lightbox-caption{position:absolute;bottom:22px;left:70px;right:70px;text-align:center;font-size:12px;line-height:1.8}.lightbox-count{display:block;color:#ccd6cd;font-size:10px}.reading-progress{height:2px;position:fixed;left:0;top:87px;z-index:21;background:var(--accent);width:0;pointer-events:none}
.sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}
@media(min-width:1450px){.home-hero{margin:0 24px}.hero-content{padding-left:70px}.hero-bottom{padding-left:70px;padding-right:70px}}
@media(max-width:1100px){.desktop-nav{gap:22px}.contact-link{display:none}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:170px minmax(0,720px);gap:35px}.reading-side-note{display:none}.trip-intro{gap:40px}.trips-grid,.stories-grid{gap:35px 22px}.about{gap:55px}.hero-content h1{font-size:90px}.home-hero{min-height:580px}.hero-content{min-height:580px}.trip-intro .trip-photo{min-height:370px}}
@media(max-width:800px){.site-header{height:76px}.wordmark{font-size:23px}.brand{gap:9px}.brand svg{width:29px;height:29px}.desktop-nav{display:none}.header-actions{gap:6px}.menu-trigger{display:flex}.mobile-menu{top:76px}.home-hero{margin:0 10px;min-height:570px;height:76svh;max-height:730px}.hero-content{min-height:570px;padding-bottom:135px}.hero-content h1{font-size:clamp(66px,11vw,90px)}.hero-image{object-position:58% 50%}.hero-content .eyebrow{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:23px}.hero-bottom{bottom:25px}.hero-location{font-size:10px}.hero-signature{font-size:10px;max-width:170px}.hero-signature span{font-size:9px}.journal-intro{gap:20px;font-size:10px;padding-top:24px;padding-bottom:24px}.journal-intro .eyebrow{font-size:9px}.journal-intro .last{display:none}.intro-rule{width:25px}.section{padding-top:65px;padding-bottom:65px}.section-top{align-items:start}.section-top p{display:none}.trips-grid,.stories-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:35px 22px}.trip-card h3{font-size:27px}.trip-card p{font-size:12px}.ticino{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;min-height:440px}.ticino-photo{min-height:430px}.ticino-copy{padding:45px 28px}.ticino-copy h2{font-size:50px}.ticino-copy p{font-size:12px}.about{gap:35px}.about-photos{padding-right:20px;padding-bottom:35px}.about-caption{font-size:19px;padding:18px 15px}.about-copy h2{font-size:40px}.about-copy p{font-size:12px}.trip-intro{gap:30px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.trip-intro h1{font-size:50px}.trip-intro p{font-size:13px;margin:20px 0}.trip-intro .trip-photo{min-height:360px}.trip-stats{gap:12px;font-size:10px;flex-wrap:wrap}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px}.article-side{position:static;max-width:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:13px;padding:0 0 20px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.article-side .eyebrow,.article-side strong{display:none}.article-side select{max-width:260px}.article-side a{margin:0}.article-top{padding-top:10px}.reading-content{font-size:16px}.reading-content p:first-child{font-size:18px}.article-gallery{padding-top:30px}.reading-progress{top:75px}.footer-links{gap:30px}.footer-top{gap:25px}.footer-top .wordmark{font-size:26px}.search-dialog{padding:24px}.article-top h1{font-size:52px}.gallery-grid{gap:10px}.prev-next h3{font-size:24px}}
@media(max-width:560px){:root{--gutter:24px}.site-header .wordmark{font-size:21px;line-height:1.02}.site-header .brand-tail{display:block}.site-header .wordmark small{margin-top:4px;font-size:6px}.site-header .header-inner{gap:12px}.footer-top .wordmark{font-size:24px}.home-hero{min-height:620px;height:calc(94svh - 76px);max-height:800px}.hero-content{min-height:620px;padding-top:10px;padding-bottom:138px}.hero-content h1{font-size:70px;line-height:1.02;max-width:320px}.hero-content>p{font-size:12px;margin:22px 0 27px;max-width:245px}.hero-content .eyebrow{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.15em}.home-hero:after{background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(10,29,26,.56),rgba(10,29,26,.12)),linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(11,25,20,.55),transparent 45%)}.hero-bottom{align-items:start}.hero-location{max-width:140px;gap:10px}.hero-location small{font-size:8px}.hero-signature{max-width:150px;font-size:9px}.hero-signature span{font-size:8px;margin-top:6px;letter-spacing:.04em}.hero-location svg{width:27px;height:27px}.hero-image{object-position:60% 50%}.pill{font-size:12px;padding:14px 20px}.journal-intro{padding-top:22px;padding-bottom:22px;gap:15px;line-height:1.6}.intro-rule{display:none}.journal-intro .eyebrow{max-width:94px;white-space:normal;flex-shrink:0}.journal-intro>span:not(.eyebrow){font-size:10px;max-width:190px}.section-top{margin-bottom:28px}.section-top .eyebrow{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:15px}.section-top h2{font-size:39px}.filters{gap:7px;margin-bottom:27px}.filter{font-size:11px;padding:8px 15px}.trips-grid,.stories-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:38px}.trip-card .photo-link{aspect-ratio:1.4}.trip-card h3{font-size:32px}.trip-card p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.85}.trip-card .text-link{font-size:12px}.trip-card .card-meta{font-size:9px;margin-top:17px}.ticino{grid-template-columns:1fr}.ticino-photo{min-height:290px;aspect-ratio:1.35}.ticino-copy{padding:45px 28px 50px}.ticino-copy .eyebrow{font-size:10px}.ticino-copy h2{font-size:61px;margin-bottom:20px}.ticino-copy p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.9}.ticino-photo .caption{font-size:9px;bottom:18px}.about{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:40px}.about-photos{max-width:420px}.about-copy p{font-size:13px}.about-copy h2{font-size:46px}.footer-top{display:block;padding-bottom:35px}.footer-links{margin-top:33px;justify-content:space-between;gap:30px}.footer-bottom{font-size:9px;align-items:start;line-height:1.8}.back-top{white-space:nowrap;font-size:9px}.brand .wordmark small{font-size:7px}.site-footer{padding-top:44px}.breadcrumbs{font-size:9px;padding-top:20px;padding-bottom:22px}.trip-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px;margin-bottom:40px}.trip-intro-copy{padding:10px 0 0}.trip-intro .eyebrow{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:19px}.trip-intro h1{font-size:62px}.trip-intro h1 span{display:inline}.trip-intro p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.85}.trip-intro .trip-photo{min-height:0;aspect-ratio:1.35}.trip-stats{font-size:11px;margin:0 0 22px}.journal-section{padding-top:30px;padding-bottom:55px}.journal-section .section-top{display:block}.journal-section .section-top h2{font-size:34px;margin-bottom:22px}.sort-select{font-size:11px;padding:9px 28px 9px 14px}.story-image{aspect-ratio:1.5}.story h3{font-size:29px}.story p{font-size:13px}.story-date{font-size:10px}.article-top h1{font-size:40px}.article-top .eyebrow{font-size:9px;margin-bottom:16px}.article-meta{font-size:10px;gap:8px;margin-top:20px}.article-meta span+span:before{padding-right:8px}.article-top{padding-bottom:30px}.article-layout{margin-bottom:35px}.article-side{gap:15px}.article-side select{max-width:220px;flex:1}.reading-content{font-size:16px;line-height:1.9}.reading-content p:first-child{font-size:18px}.gallery-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:9px}.gallery-heading h2{font-size:32px}.gallery-heading span{font-size:10px}.gallery-link{aspect-ratio:1.15}.article-gallery{padding-bottom:45px}.related-links ul{columns:1}.prev-next{margin-bottom:45px}.prev-next a{padding-top:20px;padding-right:15px}.prev-next a+a{padding-left:20px}.prev-next span{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.09em}.prev-next h3{font-size:23px}.archive-title{padding-top:43px}.archive-title h1{font-size:55px}.archive-title p{font-size:14px}.archive-search{display:block}.archive-search .text-link{margin-top:15px}.contact-page{padding-top:55px;padding-bottom:70px}.contact-page h1{font-size:53px}.contact-panel{display:block;padding:25px}.contact-panel .pill{margin-top:24px}.search-dialog{padding:22px 18px;max-height:90svh}.dialog-top h2{font-size:28px}.search-field input{font-size:16px}.search-result img{width:60px;height:60px}.search-result{gap:12px}.search-result h3{font-size:21px}.search-result small{font-size:8px}.lightbox-content{padding:65px 10px 95px}.lightbox-nav{top:auto;bottom:18px;transform:none}.lightbox-prev{left:20px}.lightbox-next{right:20px}.lightbox-caption{bottom:22px;left:74px;right:74px;font-size:10px}.lightbox-count{font-size:9px}}
.ticino-photo{width:100%;min-width:0}.ticino-copy{min-width:0}.ticino-copy p{width:100%}.article-top h1{overflow-wrap:anywhere}
@media(max-width:560px){.ticino{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr)}.hero-content h1{font-size:clamp(56px,17.9vw,70px)}.archive-title h1{font-size:clamp(46px,14vw,55px)}.trip-intro h1{font-size:clamp(46px,15.9vw,62px)}}
@media(max-width:560px){.article-side select{flex:0 0 100%;width:100%;max-width:none}}
@media(max-width:380px){.header-inner{padding-left:16px;padding-right:16px;gap:8px}.site-header .wordmark{font-size:19px}.site-header .wordmark small{font-size:5.6px}.site-header .brand{gap:7px}.site-header .brand svg{width:25px;height:25px}.hero-bottom{gap:12px}.hero-signature{font-size:8px}.hero-location{font-size:9px}.hero-location small{font-size:7px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}

/* Keep portrait previews complete at their original resolution. */
.story-image.portrait::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:-20px;background-image:var(--preview-photo);background-size:cover;background-position:center;filter:blur(18px);opacity:.45}.story-image.portrait img{position:relative;object-fit:contain}.story-image.portrait:hover img{transform:none}